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Japanese Beetles: Everything you always wanted to know! |
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The Japanese beetle is native to Japan and was accidentally introduced into the United States in 1916. Since that time it has slowly spread from southern Maine to Georgia, and westward from Missouri to Minnesota.
Japanese beetle adults are one-half inch long, shiny, metallic green, oval insects. They have coppery-brown wing covers with five tufts of white hairs along the sides of their bodies. The larvae of Japanese beetles are white grubs with three pairs of jointed legs and a yellow-brown head. They assume the typical C-shaped position in the soil as other grubs.
The Japanese beetle has a one-year life cycle but spends most of its life in the soil as a grub. In March, the over-wintering, partially grown grubs move upward in the soil, where they feed on turf grass roots. From mid-May to June, the young larvae pupate. After pupating, adults begin to emerge from late-June to August. The female Japanese beetles release a pheromone that attracts males, causing them to congregate in groups. Mating and egg laying begins soon after emergence. Japanese beetle adults feed during the day on a wide variety of low-growing plants and later fly to tree leaves. Adults typically live for 30 to 45 days. Once mated, females lay eggs in the lawn and other grassy areas just under the soil surface. Eggs soon hatch and young larvae begin to feed on roots of nearby grass and other plants until cold weather forces them to move deeper into the soil for the winter. As the soil temperatures warm in the spring, the grubs return to the surface to complete their life cycle.
The adult and larval stages of the Japanese beetle can be quite destructive. The adult beetles feed on over 300 species of ornamental
plants, with roses, lindens, crabapples, elms, birch, and maples being preferred hosts. Typically, adult beetles feed in large groups on the upper leaf surface, leaving only a lace-like skeleton of veins. They can also devour flowers and ripening fruit, and if large populations are present, they can defoliate a large tree. Feeding damage caused by beetles usually results in leaves turning brown, dying, and eventually falling off. Trees and shrubs rarely attacked by Japanese beetles include red and silver maples, boxwood, euonymus, juniper, arborvitae, magnolia, ash, hydrangea, spruce, and yew.
The Japanese beetle grubs feed below ground on cool-season turf grass and ornamental plant roots. Feeding can cause severe damage to an entire plant’s root system. Large areas of lawn can be destroyed in a relatively short period of time by grubs or digging animals (skunks, birds, and raccoons) that feed on grubs. First evidence of injury by grubs is a localized patch of pale, discolored, and dying turf grass, symptoms similar to drought stress. As grubs expand their feeding range, the small damaged areas enlarge and turf can easily be lifted and rolled back like carpet to reveal the grubs. If 10 to 12 grubs exist within one square foot, treatment is warranted.
For Adult Japanese Beetles Handpicking the beetles off isolated plants or knocking them into jars of soapy water will reduce populations. Commercial Japanese beetle traps and pheromone lures are available, however, research has shown that the use of traps will not protect plants from damage, and may, in fact, attract more beetles into the area. Tests have revealed that the botanical insecticide, Neem oil, interferes with the life cycle of Japanese beetles, which seem to avoid plants sprayed with products containing Neem. Feeding injury from adult beetles rarely causes death of a plant. Avoid unnecessary spraying by protecting only highly valued or aesthetically visible plants from feeding injury. Spray every 4 to 7 days while beetles are present.
For Grubs Because eggs and young grubs cannot survive in relatively dry soils, do not irrigate during beetle activity to help reduce grub populations. The bacterial milky spore disease, Bacillus popillae, kills grubs in the soil. The dead grubs then produce bacterial spores that remain in the soil to infect future grubs. Milky spore disease, available in selected garden centers, is applied to the soil, but it takes 2-3 years before spore counts build to become effective. Most soil insecticides provide short-term control of Japanese beetle grubs if applied from mid-August through September. Treated areas must be watered with 1/2 inch of water after application to move insecticide down near the turf root zone where grubs are found. It will usually take 10-14 days for the grubs to die, but they cease feeding within 24 hours.
READ AND FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS
Management Handbook (University of Illinois Cooperative Extension Service) for a complete listing of chemical recommendations. Use pesticides safely and wisely; read and follow label directions.
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July 13th, 2009 at 12:19 pm
The Neem oil sounds like the most environmentally safe option. Is there research that the oil adversely affects other other insect populations in the soil?
July 14th, 2009 at 6:13 pm
Another question – will people who treat their lawns for grubs be harming other beneficial insects – like the grubs that become lightening bugs or the periodic cicadas?
July 16th, 2009 at 12:44 pm
I have beetles in a tree of mine. Will they ruin the tree? How can I reduce their number? It is a rather tall tree.
July 17th, 2009 at 8:21 am
So yesterday I grabbed a spray bottle of window cleaner and went beetle hunting. I had hear a rumor that window cleaner might zap Japanese beetles.
July 17th, 2009 at 8:14 pm
What are the natural enemies of the Japanese beetle in Japan? Spraying with insecticides also kills honey bees if sprayed on blooming plants. Also, won’t killing beetle grubs kill all grubs? There must be a natural enemy somewhere!
July 24th, 2009 at 8:39 am
My fruit tree 5-6 years ago was filled with fruit. Over two or three years there was less & less fruit. The past 3 years or so, there has been no fruit at all … due to the rainfall and temperature fluctuations?
Yesterday morning I got up close and observed some beetles on the leaves. Poor leaf quality the past year or two.
I spoke to a Japanese friend about the beetles. Thank you, Morton Arboretum staff, for providing this forum and excellent expertise! Yesterday I didn’t know what the insect was, beyond that it was a beetle. Another friend told me he had seen many of them in Busse Woods.
July 24th, 2009 at 9:28 am
To quote from
http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/biocontrol/j_beetle.htm:
“The spring Tiphia wasp, Tiphia vernalis Rohwer, is an effective biological control agent that can be used as part of an overall Integrated Pest Management program to suppress populations of the Japanese beetle. USDA researchers consider it to be the most effective parasitoid of the beetle in the U.S. When used in conjunction with other control strategies that do minimal harm to natural enemies of the Japanese beetle (such as parasitic wasps and nematodes), this wasp can regulate beetle populations at an acceptably low level.”
July 24th, 2009 at 11:07 am
The lawn treatments need to mention beneficial nematodes- milky spore is unreliable, but those little worms really do the trick!
no nasty side effects, effective for years!!
July 27th, 2009 at 7:05 pm
If I pick off adult Japanese beetles into a jar of soapy water, will the soap kill them or do I have to squeeze them with tweezers or microwave the soap solution?
July 29th, 2009 at 9:14 am
I believe they simply drown. Anybody know what actually does them in?
July 30th, 2009 at 5:33 am
I used milky spore last fall and am seeing far fewer beetles this year but they are still on my David Austin roses. I sprayed some pure Neem oil and they are no longer on the leaves, but still on the flowers. They are not on the other varities of roses I have planted.
July 30th, 2009 at 8:06 am
Interesting! The beetles are less active on my Austin roses but all over the others. I haven’t had much of a problem with them on the leaves but they burrow into the petals and – woosh – the flower’s gone in a day or less!
August 7th, 2009 at 4:22 pm
For a couple years now I have been filling a squirt bottle with isopropyl alcohol and squirting the darn buggers with this.
It is labor intensive, I make the rounds every day, but if you catch them early I beleive you can prevent them from laying their eggs. I have seen no damage to any plant from the alcohol,
such as elm, hazel, rose, grape, Virginia creeper, Wisteria.
Rubbing alcohol, 71% or 91% works fine.
August 7th, 2009 at 9:02 pm
Is it just me, but I have noticed that Japanese Beetle die when they feed on my Pelargonium. I hope someone has observed this too and is looking into it.
August 16th, 2009 at 7:36 am
I live in Pa. and I just realized that I have not seen any japanese beetles around my area this year. Is this common, are there year’s when they don’t emerge or there number’s are decreased. Because by this time usually have been enjoying my garden,not missing them really just curious.
August 27th, 2009 at 1:10 pm
I have over 150 roses here in Wisconsin. I only have floribundas, gradifloras, rugosa, shrub and knock outs. This is the first year I have been invaded by japanese beetles. Because I am retired, I am able to maintain a constant and highly vigilant attack. Dropping them into soapy water kills them but so will most any liquid mixture, i.e., vinegar (soap is cheapest). This picking off of beetles is time consuming and also those that fly away return within an hour so you have to do another walkabout. They are lazy in the morning but peak from noon-5pm, and they love full sun. If it rains, they hide on the undersides of the leaves. I have found that the scent of the beetle is left on the leaf/flower and must be completely removed or beetles will return to the site and this includes any leaf/flower that has been given the “lace” treatment. I have used most every spray chemical out there, and they are only effective for about 2-4 days. Not only is this costly it is dangerously toxic to me, others and the planet. Sevin has been put on my lawns and gardens 3 times this year and we’ll only know the outcome next season (2010), and it’s also costly to treat more than an acre. (BTW: Sevin is banned in canada.)
Currently, I am researching specific companion plants that will repel the beetle…. rue(very invasive and causes skin burning), tansy (invasive), chives (invasive). I am down to garlic, sage (herb), parsley, nepta (catmint), pelargoniums (scented geraniums) and alliums. It is too late to plant now but I will be doing that for next year. I did, however, buy the sage and garlic spices in the grocery store and will be sprinkling that about when this unusual August rain stops. Japanese beetles are supposed to be gone around 8/15, but they are more prolific now because of the rains. The interesting thing about this beetle is that it is moving quickly across the country and I believe what it did not eat at all before it is now eating and enjoying! It does eat lilacs, magnolias, russian sage, viburnium, some daisy and some lillies. So please include those on the list of what they eat and are attracted to.
Any other treatments for this invasive bug ?
October 13th, 2009 at 1:16 pm
The best “treatment” I have found for Japanese beetles is to keep my roses and trees as healthy as possible. In past years we have had moderate to severe rose damage. This year, on the same roses, the damage was minimal. The changes were; 1 – I kept everything mulched and watered, and fed the roses well; 2 – I removed the Virginia Creeper that was attracting large numbers of beetles to my yard; 3 – I was vigilant with the soapy water; 4 – the “tastiest” rose I have was in a pot, so I moved it off my deck (lower ground is good) and camouflaged it with other perennials that wove foliage among the rose canes; and 5 – I removed the few leaves and flowers that had been munched on. After first few weeks they stopped bothering my roses.
The extra water and mulch around my linden seemed to do the trick.
July 7th, 2010 at 2:11 pm
You could potentially harm your plants by spraying alcohol or window cleaner on your leaves. If you insist on trying it, first spray it on a few leaves and wait a few days to see if the leaves are harmed.